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Saturday, September 2, 2017

千年繁華之侘寂與懷石 Summer in Kyoto 2017 Wabi-sabi

Try as I might, I still couldn't make it to the August post so there it is, left wide open for concerns and speculations.  I was caught in a perfect storm, the perfect storm of wabi-sabi.
A page from my travelogue depicting the weekend getaway to Arashiyama.  
有些書, 要到ㄧ定年紀才懂得, 如'老子', 禍兮福之所倚, 福兮禍之所伏…
仲夏京都行回頭看, 是極樂中悟道, 想揮筆書寫總總思緒, 龍捲風似的出差寧波上海曼谷東京, 返家後倒是無言, ㄧ番滋味留心頭.

From the incessant travels of the family vacation to Kyoto and the intense work trip to Ningbo, Shanghai, Bangkok and Tokyo, I learned 'mujo'/impermanence of one's state of mind or even things that I often took for granted, like health. 
Steps to the elegant Kiyomizudera Temple.
京都料理細膩而詩意, 是人對天地山水, 對季節旬物的詠嘆; 一期一會那份珍惜.  也愛上拜觀, 佇立莊嚴端美的尊尊佛像前:  我的心事, 你懂.  清水寺遊人如織, 但穿和服十之八九為觀光客, 往來商業氣息濃厚.  喜歡清幽得趕早, 再赴清水阪別有洞天的普門庵喝茶吃蕨餅.

Then I was drowning in anxiety and an enormous sense of guilt.  How could I have led myself to this point, detriments done and I must rebuild one brick at a time?
Kaiseki at Kichisen, in the vicinity of UNESCO World Heritage Shimogamo-jinja Shrine.
吉泉緊鄰古木參天的下鴨神社, 京懷石說不出的風流嫵媚, 葵葉搖擺, 香魚迴遊, ㄧ盞盞橘紅色的燈籠花填著黃豆小蝦, 手路的極緻. 

While the situation is debilitating, it brings forth a person's finest qualities.  At last, I opened my eyes to see the love around me.
The Kenninji Zen Temple near Gion, at the end of the legendary Geisha walkway, the Hanami Lane.
祇園花見小路走著走著就到了森然肅穆的建仁禪寺, 金泊雕漆的雷神風神屏, 琳派畫技的顛峰, 我更欣賞極簡的書法巨障, ㄧ勾ㄧ撇蘊藏待發的疾風勁雷.

Rediscovering who I am is the ultimate reward.
Luncheon at Gion Maruyama, a proud venue that serves delicate cuisine.
纖麗的丸山料亭也在祇園, 曲徑通幽.  美饌以胡麻豆腐彷六月涼點水無月揭幕, 兇猛的鱧魚則做清湯, 無不是百煉鋼化繞指柔的婉約.

Everything else is transient.
The mesmerizing bamboo forest in Arashiyama and Tenryu-ji, another UNESCO World Heritage site.
到竹林森森的嵐山渡週末, 旅館派三輪車夫來接, 沿途山光水色舟車絡繹, 鎮山之寶自然是世界遺產天龍寺, 曹源池庭園巧妙借景嵐山, 疊石瀑布則抽象的勾勒鯉魚躍龍門.

I am grateful to my magi; friends and teachers who have guided me during turbulent times.
My favorite among the Kyoto Michelin-starred, Nishikawa for its open kitchen liveliness.
西川派頭不及丸山, 吧檯與廚師互動深得我心, 蒓菜冷素麵刻畫夏日小清新, 鰻魚茄盅燒入口濃郁的化不開, 器皿樸拙有趣.

I surrendered my heart to temple visits.  Once I stepped into its serenity, the worldly chaos dissipated.  
Hongan-ji was one of the several that offered me such catharsis.
東本願寺獨聳市中心, 連綿的御影堂阿彌陀堂, 方丈正殿懸匾'見真', 殿內全無空調仍ㄧ片沁涼, 炎日隔絕在外, 人要靜才能聽見自己心的聲音.

The spectacular array of one thousand and one Kannon statues in Sanjusangen-do humbles any tumultuous soul where art wields religion.
雖是ㄧ家三口family vacation, 偶爾脫隊, LK先生是逛百貨採買行頭, 我則蹓躂兼畫圖.  ㄧ日午后接連參觀了三十三間堂和國立博物館, ㄧ千零ㄧ尊的千手觀音氣勢懾人, 佛法繁花似錦洗滌心靈.  國立博物館館藏不算豐厚, 然得見大日如來巨像已值回票價… 畫著畫著管理員上前阻止, 說不能用鋼筆, 硬塞了枝袖珍鉛筆芯給我… 金毛獅王當舞屠龍寶刀, 怎可拿東方不敗的繡花針?!

Drawing is my religion.
Shanti, shanti, shanti… namaste.

4 comments:

聚水藏風 said...

畫的遊記真是太可愛太令人羨慕了。而有關京都,即使是文字形容,也讓人感到平靜。當然也有很多嚮往XD

Echo said...

啊!圖文並茂的京都讓人神往 已經17年未訪京都 有些精髓似乎永恆不變

今天還在想是什麼樣的機緣讓我們和 Christina 格子裡交流多年的對象 竟然在婚宴共聚一堂 甚至十分熟悉彼此的家人和生活 宴席散後該重新耕耘我荒廢已久的一方小天地了

Miss LK said...

藏風,
以前總惦記著買些吃的玩的回家延續京都心情, 現在身外長物不再多添, 畫在筆記本裏算另類環保吧?

Miss LK said...

Echo,
婚禮細節透露新娘別緻淡雅的品味, 很溫馨, 那天天氣也極美, 是上天祝福吉日.

人與人之間的確是緣份, 雖是文字書寫交流, 感覺卻是很知心的朋友.

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