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Sunday, May 26, 2019

古墓奇兵 The Lost Heaven on Earth

Catching up to write about my scenic detour during the April trip to Southeast Asia - Angkor Wat.  The spectacular archeological site and the exuberant mythology of Hindu Buddhism topped any anthropology lesson for me.  Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm unraveled such melancholy splendor of the Khmer civilization.  What was once lost was found in the end.
 LK(aka Lonely Knight) outside the Bayon Temple.

近來終曲一齣接一齣, 先是MCU:  Endgame, 後有GoT:  The Iron Throne.  前者不離好萊塢式英雄主義, 頗同情Thanos, 他自有原則並不求利己, 鋼鐵人的選擇與滅族有何不同, 孰是孰非?  美國隊長通過時光機和舊愛白頭偕老倒是暖入心扉, GoT權力原慾的冷酷暴謔向來自成亂倫宇宙, 瀕臨尾聲竟高頌真愛萬歲?!  請看那位深愛孿生姐妹號稱君王殺手的金髪帥叔… 言歸正傳, 四月初赴柬埔寨開疆闢土, 乾脆起而行, 換一身考古探險隊制服:  寬邊帽, 亞麻長衫, 布鞋, 雙肩包 - 吳哥窟LK來也!!!  暹粒距胡志明市飛航約莫一個鐘頭, 小飛機搖搖晃晃有種懷舊感, 海關大廳光潔高效率, 櫛比鱗次的觀光飯店, 已難見血色高棉的苦痛記憶. 

Built in the 12th century by Emperor Suryavarman II dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, Angkor Wat floated in the heat like a mirage.  The steep and narrow stairways were difficult to mount but the vertigo when surmounted, brought a spiritual enlightenment.  The geometry of five pagodas resembles the peaks of religious Mount Meru, the dwelling of the devas.  The enchanting bas-relief adorned the gallery walls narrates epic legends.  I was standing in front of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk where 92 devas tugging shoulder to shoulder with 88 asuras to extract the elixir of immortality.  More important deities like Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva… were depicted in scale of grandeur and beautiful apsaras graced the corridors.
烈日炎炎, 吳哥寺卻景色飄緲, 寶塔疊層崢嶸, 八方鏡相凝聚建築工藝顛峰.  湖水倒影海市蜃樓似幻似真, 石階木梯陡險, 恨不得有泰山揮繩索攀援本領, 履登高臺視野豁開, 跨進深長的雪白迴廊, 綿綿相連的浮雕栩栩如生描述古印度創世紀的甘露傳:  天神和阿修羅拔河巨龍那迦, 奇禽異獸傾巢相幫, 翻騰海浪誕生妙樂善舞的天女羣… 段段關於神權, 關於敬天, 關於信仰的傳奇, 跨越千年, 於眼前冉冉展開.

The Smile of Angkor, the nickname to Bayon, the heart of Angkor Thom is the magnificent temple with 216 gargantuan faces of Avalokiteshvara bearing remarkable resemblance to the temple's builder, Emperor Jayavarman VII according to my tour guide, Mr. Sokah. The omnipresent faces of serenity metamorphose into a phantasmagoric labyrinth.  Every corner the visitor turns, you confront one, encounter an array of them in progression or be devoured and become part of the maze. 
吳哥城門外幾頭大象, 如斯溫善慈悲的生物淪落觀光道具深感無奈, 跨護城河的橋道左英偉提婆神對峙右猙獰阿修羅, 由天界拔河至人間.  吳哥城頭號古蹟班揚寺, 刻就五十四尊巨碩四面佛陀, 兩百一十六張微笑面容如山巒迂緩, 磅礡佇立天地之間, 寶相莊嚴, 神秘而平和, 如影隨行.  導遊蘇卡先生解說詳細, 很懂取景, 替我攝影多幅究風格文青照.

Then there was the eerie Ta Prohm, the ancient temple overgrown by strangulating Godswood…  The velvety leaves formed a canopy and the venerable roots of the sky-scraping trees dislodged the sacred monastery into crumbling blocks of stone.  It was where I breathed in the slowness and the stillness of time while shaken by the ferocity of nature. 
最後抵達塔普榕廟, 伽耶伐門七世為皇室靈修所建幾世紀來, 叢林緩緩吞噬石寺, 盤根錯節的沖天老樹將地基整個翻掘, 自然戰勝人力, 糾纏成眼前清幽靜謐又鬼氣森森的景緻綠蔭遮天, 碧蘚鋪地, 青苔鑲鏽斷瓦殘垣, 樹根如條條沈睡的巨碩蟠龍, 似乎不小心驚醒, 巨龍便會搖頭擺尾, 席捲磚牆瓦礫, 這亦是多年前動作片古墓奇兵場景, 曾經被遺忘幾個世紀政教合一的古高棉王朝重回文明歷史.

Khmer cuisine reminded me part Vietnamese, part Thai and a tad of Taiwanese, too riding between the savory and the sweet.  Each dish was beautifully decorated with fresh flowers.  At dinner I declined the bread service for health reasons and the courteous staff brought me a slice of gluten free orange tart instead…. dessert before meal, anytime!
高棉料理花團錦簇, 嚐著有幾分越南菜清雅與泰國菜的活色生香, 魚露鹹椰漿甜渾融之際也頗臺菜.  獨行俠異鄉異客獨看夕陽西下, 棕櫚蔥蘢的泳池內外歐陸遊客嬉笑喧鬧入夜, 酒吧梯田般排列軟榻, 雞尾酒與不知門道的菸草味混蚊香, 徐徐交織南國晚風.... 想到高棉曾是殺戮戰場, 心頭不禁一悚, 誰敢說比肩而坐的長髪女郎或白衣青年是人是鬼? 

Neither Lyft nor Uber, tuk-tuk rules the road in Siem Reap.  There were elephants outside Angkor Thom for tourist attraction but these majestic animals really should roam in their natural habitats instead :(  I took a tuk-tuk to the Angkor National Museum for an afternoon well spent studying Khmer history.  
暹粒各國遊客眾多, 搭乘半像轎子半像三輪的嘟嘟車美金通用, 需講價.  包車去國立博物院, 飯店禮賓部提醒回程再付費.  館藏不算豐厚然條理分明, 印度教和高棉帝國來龍去脈總整理.  原來元朝派周達觀出使南洋, 寫就"真臘風土記", 桑香佛舍正是吳哥.  印度佛教多彩多姿, 阿修羅好戰男極醜女極美, 乾闥婆食香氣, 緊那羅半人半獸主樂, 破壞神濕婆多才多藝多怒兼多情, 迦陵頻伽人首鳥身面容艷麗, 妙音入耳欲醉.... 史詩寶藏讀著欲罷不能!

Back to HCMC continuing on the business portion.  Snapshots from the team building cooking class during our Sunday off.  I finally learned wielding the rice wrapper and couldn't stop making fresh spring rolls since I returned home :)
還是得回胡志明市繼續工作, 和遠在青島的金髪女郎芮謝兒視訊, 察看我的設計打樣進度.  中美貿易戰關稅新高苦煞升斗小民, 執行長勒令急撤, 西進印度南下菲律賓越南柬埔寨, 此一時彼一時, 時窮節乃見, 做生意可不是談戀愛, 要認清:  婊子無情, 戲子無義.  也有些形而上愛情本質:  願賭服輸.  LK拿人薪俸, 只能情緒擺兩旁公平放中間.  多年來的領悟:  人家給的隨時可收回, 真正屬於自己的唯有健康和學識, 兩項皆要好好經營, 對自己負責.

Most of our traveling team prefers to dine in the hotel for 1st world comfort but I am a 'Glocal' so I search for the glorious local cuisine only a fraction of the 5 star hotel pricing with more delicious food.  
於胡志明市同出差的同事們習慣舒適方便, 喜歡於飯店或觀光餐廳用膳, 我偏愛覓在地美食.  離飯店七分鐘腳程發現一爿小店, 門面不起眼, 二樓別有洞天深富設計感.  早晨7:30便開店, 香甜越式咖啡加烤豬肉碎米飯美金五塊錢有找, 重回用午晚餐, 各式各樣的新鮮米紙春捲, 檳榔葉燒牛肉扎, 三色仙草冰, 焦糖布丁.... 親愛的, 原來你在這裏!!!

My other off-duty theme was coffee, quintessentially black.  These little cafes were like bat caves hidden behind unassuming facade or nestled on a quitter upper floor of a cramped shophouse. 
開完會同事們也愛購物, 我更熱衷累積回憶, 主題是"黑咖啡".  咖啡館埋藏巷弄內, 並不好找, 還得穿越車陣騎樓, 鑽後門爬窄梯, 當揮汗如雨後入座靠窗安靜角落, 好整以暇來杯醇香的手沖咖啡, 翻開筆記本悠悠書寫, 時間頓然靜止, 這是屬於我的相對論+存在主義.

Charmed by the cuppa aroma, there I was, began my dueling of relativity and existentialism. 
陌巷充滿大馬路上看不見的風光, 警衛阿伯吐痰差點吐到我長褲, 拉著我頻頻說不輪轉的英文道歉.... 吐痰十分不文明, 道歉卻又是公民禮儀, 我揮手作罷.  距飯店不遠處有條街按摩院林立, 做的應是正當生意, 某家卻別出心裁, 門前排排站穿緊身奧黛的波霸招攬, 波濤洶湧圍攻男性觀光客.... 按腳爽的是腳丫子, 是不是波霸按有差嗎?  男性對第二性徵豐富的女性青睞的確有物種源由, 此時已是21世紀, 無論東西方, 人類仍倚靠物競天擇的潛意識左右明意識, 這....  過馬路時認出對街一位高大美裔男子, 是舊品牌時期傢俱部的同事, 記得這位大叔早有家室, 身旁卻跟著位年輕亞裔辣妹狀若情侶, 直覺此時相認尷尬, 我拉低帽沿快步走過.  事後頗感心態齷齪, 怎麼無憑據認定老同事搞婚外情迫不及待投擲冷眼心石?  就算人家真搞婚外情臨老入花叢又關路人甲屁事?  短短十五分鐘閒散步, 便激發數項社會心理學議題, 看來下回出差胡志明市, 還是要大街小巷邊吃喝邊田野調查 :)  

4 comments:

Echomiao said...

随着 Miss LK 神游吴哥窟 心嚮往之 此地雖一直在我的 short list 上 卻也一再錯過 你的一身裝扮再合適不過 讓我想起電影 L’amant 中的殖民地風情

看了8年的的權力遊戲 結局讓人悵然若失 其实也不知道什麼才該是合理合適的結局 看到群眾忿忿議論甚至要求重拍覺得也不必太認真 不也就是莎劇的另一種化身 上個月參加GoT主題 party 我穿上寶藍色絲綢長衫 別上三龍紅色胸針 一頭金冠 不屬於任何特定人物就當是 mad king 的遠親吧 😜

Miss LK said...

吳哥窟叢林中有寺廟 寺廟中有叢林 自然與人力拔河 very otherworldly... 值得一訪 下次我們喝茶給你看itinerary!

Echo好眼光 我近年少買市售成衣 皆因過份花俏或質感不合 數件常穿的衣衫裙裝全由LK改版擇色選料請裁縫量身訂製 極簡經典最適合自己風格 :)

你秀髮如雲身量高挑 GoT costume形容倒像劇中從未正式出場傾國傾城的美人Lyanna! L先生扮Prince Rhaegar還是兄長Ned Stark? 我最喜歡Brienne of Tarth和對死神說改天的Arya! 完結篇後幾天下班回家便猛與遠方老友分析finale 以下是LK不負責影評 :)

The finale certainly diluted if not contradicted the resonating savage irony throughout most GoT seasons(the beheaded Robb Stark swapping heads with his dire wolf after the Red Wedding... the ‘good’ actually has a high probability of getting themselves butchered for bound by morals). Triumphant from the bloodbath, Grey Worm still sailed for Naath(另類塞上牛羊空許約like蕭峰?) and Bran ruled with neither fear nor tear but virtual reality... There’s a rhetorical passage shared by Tyrion and Jon about love vs. duty plus death in the equation. This sums up my sentiments on the finale: it is not real in the 360 primal brutality(emotional, political, physical) that underpins GoT this far but it gives a sentimental viewer like me some sense of hope(poetic justice?). Hope is the death of reality; reality is the death of hope.

Echomiao said...

量身定制是個好主意 省了許多挑選檢點試裝的時間精力 潮流更迭也無需盲目追趕

我家老頑童是搞笑 他說他的裝扮是地中海域有三個女殺手的那個邪惡王子 名字也記不得了 一身紅色滾金繡 本還要加戴個 turban 被我阻止 幾個男士披了祖母的貂皮坎肩充當 Jon Snow 當然是不能相比了

Miss LK said...

L先生有意思 扮得可是Prince of Dorne, Oberyn Martell? 那角色玩世不恭亦正亦邪卻也有情有義 :)

張愛玲名言: 衣服是一種語言 隨身攜帶的袖珍戲劇.

藉此觀眾生觀己 頗有趣

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