華麗年代 Autumn in Tokyo 1. of Decay and Decadence

人類文明的衍進如Sisyphus的滾石, 誕之初的蒼茫, 奮力推向豐華的頂端, 盛極必衰的墜落, 世紀末必有ㄧ番頹靡來得繁花似錦… 自工業革命揭開資本主義的簾幕, 奢華的定義離不開金錢, 種種慾望於基本需求被滿足後, 熱烈的席捲音樂人文藝術, 然媒體的無遠弗界和市場行銷全球化, 小資產已為新共產主義所取代… 奢華反趨抽象禪意, 該是ㄧ種生活態度, 懂得過日子, ㄧ分錢使得三分的功效, 雅趣俯拾皆是, 單憑原慾駕馭的盲目追求, 無底洞只會泥足深陷.

Our recent trip to Tokyo was taken over by nostalgic charms from the beginning to the end. While my favorite wagashi maker Toraya celebrated its 30th anniversary of its Parisian establishment, French connection of all kinds from haute couture to haute cuisine was everywhere in Tokyo. Tokyo and Paris are the joie de vivre twins separated at birth. The first fine dining of the trip was lunch at the Ukai-tei located in the landmark Gyre building of Omotesando. Its Art Nouveau decor, A la Minute cooking, impeccable presentation of food and pampering service transported us to an era of leisure.
Tea time at its salon after lunch.


東京和巴黎恰似ㄧ對奢華的孿生子, 儘管時光匆匆, 相知相惜映照著彼此, 城市的各個角落總能找到那眷戀的, 華麗年代的痕蹟. 巴黎多年不見, 縱然記憶猶新, 夏虫何語冰? 東京近年ㄧ再重遊, 每回都能接收新資訊, 想來設計首都, 幾個月潮流便全數翻盤, 不變的是大和民族某個消費層對歷史名店的執著以及餐桌上食物與器皿的美味關係. 童年時對日本的印象來自大和和紀的漫畫'橫濱故事', 後來迷上三島由紀夫的鉅作'豐饒之海', 兩者風格迥異, 敘述的卻都是明治維新後的日本, 歐式禮服翩飛的鹿鳴館, 和洋交融的大正時期, 遙遠而朦朧的浪漫甚是動人… 這次東京遊的首餐洋食在表參道的Ukai-tei, 米其林ㄧ顆星, 位於涉谷地標名家旗艦店爭鳴的Gyre頂樓, 門口豎立兩座普普風雕塑, 接待處暗紅畫牆配烏木銀灰絨古典沙發, 數件玻璃藝品隨意擺在雕花木架上, 幾乎可以幻想文豪森鷗外攜著愛女姍姍而來, 臨座是美如Dorian Gray的少年, 於是那'恋人たちの森'的故事雛型於森茉莉才情洋溢的年輕心靈慢慢發芽… A la Minute的餐點比起氛圍並不遜色, 秋栗濃湯, 野菇香煎白魚, 和牛鐵板燒, 襯著Royal Copenhagen蕾絲圖案青花瓷, 低斂雍容, 餐後侍者領我們進入Salon de Cafe用甜點, 勺著小銀杯盛的糖漬巨峰葡萄, 切塊雲朵般的楓糖戚風蛋糕… 悠閒的午茶時光.
I wanted a piece of every kind from the dessert cart. The appearance of these delicacies might be subdue… the airy chiffon cake haunted a long aftertaste of illusive sweetness while the flan imprinted the tongue with a powerful duet of vanilla and caramel.

旅行初始總是興緻勃勃, 沒命的四處遊逛, 生怕錯過了什麼 幾天下來本錢耗盡便有些念家, 東京行的最後晚餐突然想吃熱騰騰的日式咖哩, 晃到就近Shiseido Parlour銀座本店, 享受鬧中取靜的舊時代風情. 憑良心說, 資生堂食肆的味道只能算溫暖順口, 但我就是偏愛老派的maître d'服務, 雪白的餐巾, 鑲金邊的骨瓷, 光可鑑人的銀器, 點上ㄧ杯夢幻紫色巨峰葡萄汁加蘇打… 暫時忘卻LK先生和我是對再平凡不過的夫妻, 相視微笑, 彷彿眼前人ㄧ位是英俊的學運領袖, ㄧ位是才貌雙全, 剛剛結束首演的芭蕾女伶…

The trip's last supper took place at the Shiseido Parlour. That's right! The polish Shiseido mecca in Ginza is not your cosmetic boudoir, fashionistas. Its parlor style dining hall provides comfort food like Japanese style curry rice :) The silver condiment stand served pickles for palate cleansing - a must when eating spoonful of fragrant curry.

I ordered flan whenever I saw it on the menu, loving the denser Japanese style flan(possibly Spanish influenced) more than the French creme brulee because it reminded me of my childhood especially when it was served in a glass dessert cup lined with paper lace doilies.

購物狂來東京事半功倍, 巴黎名店Pierre Herme, Mariage Freres, Ladureeㄧ個也不少… 可見日人哈法入骨. 銘物或許可以移植, 本店獨有的氣質卻難複製, MF巴黎馬黑區的本店位於窄巷內, 門前高高低低的鋪石子路, 周圍個性小店林立, 深秋初冬時分走來, 到木頭閣樓上喝壺熱茶, 特別療心. 銀座分店精緻氣派, 如同妝容無瑕的東京仕女, 忘卻了最讓人心動的美麗往往不經意, 像是法國永遠的玉女Sophie Marceau, 她額前被風吹亂的瀏海和充滿笑意的眼角些許皺紋…

Marriage Freres in Ginza, more formal than its sister in Paris…

Japanese ladies swoon over Laduree(fine, so do I). Laduree has an extensive boutique inside the Mitsukoshi department store. Aside from the jewel like macarons, the store also carries branded stationery. Mr. LK looked at me with disbelief, 'Who in the world would buy Laduree letter sheets and envelope? For what?' Oh, well I just did. Can you say beauty is not a function, too, huh?

此行亦帶齊紙筆, 可惜懶蟲上身, 前後只繪了幅自畫像, 說是自畫其實不過借了在Ukai-tei等待用餐白日夢連連時, LK先生以iphone替我拍的姿勢, 面容無相彷之處, 與好茶美點共存亡的精神或可永垂不朽?
My only drawing from the trip although I did bring the travel watercolor set… laziness surely has become my current best buddy. This is in a sense self-portrait 'in spirit' only - long live the TEA(and desserts)!