上海再念 READ! Shanghai Encore

寫續集?!

開春歸來驛馬星動, 緊急出差南中國, 想到上海冬寒整個腿軟, 轉念現下逐鹿中原, 我連'自宮'這種厚黑學都考慮到了, 還假惺惺作啥? 向頂頭上司敲定, 就由LK單槍匹馬替企劃案收尾, 誰怕! 我已認清自己定位 - I love problem solving, 遇見愈棘手的問題愈是眼亮心癢, 當然, 沒錢我也願意做這種傻子創意思維, 千萬不能讓老闆知道, 千萬.  真要寫, 寫詭譎哀思武俠完結篇才對, 前後不過兩個月光景, 人事全面洗盤.  某層次我鞏固實力, 贏了裏子; 某層次我呆若木雞, 輸了面子.  我畢竟有父系遺傳, 享受手起手落之間的危機感, 輸贏都心悅誠服.

In the core of el nino winter, in the midst of pining for Downton Abbey Final Season, I was called upon a critical mission, a whirlwind business trip to Shanghai!  Whatever it takes, really.

At least the destination is Shangahi that I have a soft spot for.  Luckily my childhood friend S was able to make it back to the city for one evening to dine with me, a little play fueled the meeting marathon the day after.  The charming restaurant was situated in the old French concession; it featured authentic Shanghai cuisine with a touch of nostalgic comfort.

隆冬的上海不如預期冷, 少份濕黏但覺清爽.  從確定行程到出發時間緊迫, 無法履行上回對童年友伴S辦演說會的承諾, S也惋惜, 我這次停留五天四夜, 他偏偏得來回臺北參加婚禮, 不過我們還是'喬'出星期四晚聚首. 老朋友默契十足, 興沖沖於晚餐前帶我欣賞廣告人Tango的插畫展, 黑白素描遊戲線條:  有種幽默, 有種寂寞, 有種浪漫, 有種孤獨.  Tango在場為畫迷簽書, S認購兩本, 一本贈我留念, 一本請Tango簽給太座大人當禮物.  看著高大的S西裝筆挺外套長大衣圍巾, 談吐知性, 我喜歡自己的好朋友因歲月平添優雅.  在這瞬息萬變的世界, 我更欣賞自己的好朋友深情, 似乎這樣, 人世間便多些你可以相信的什麼, 不僅僅是爾虞我詐. 我問: 餐廳在哪裡? 他答:  法租界. 上海灘了這都, 笑彎腰. 他訂位本幫菜點石齋小宴, 我好奇, 招牌怎麼有'行者無疆'余秋雨先生的書法, 原來餐廳主人是余秋雨先生的兄弟, 美食與文學, 完全擊中我弱點, 真走運.  攤開菜單樣樣好, 我舉棋不定, 他笑: 你難得來, 都點吧! 我現在胖成這樣, 吃不完打包我明天午餐解決.  想起少年時他弱柳迎風, 我忍不住大笑. 洋洋灑灑下單酒香草頭, 蟹粉豆腐, 紅燒肉加滷蛋, 清蒸鰣魚… 上紅燒肉時, S說你夾最上面那塊, 最上面那塊通常味道最好.  這話怎麼似曾相識?  心頭莫名惆悵起來, ㄧ陣迷惘.  然美食當前, 該大大方方, 吃!  我們天南地北, 科技, 文學, 電影, 家族秘辛… 談笑間時光飛逝, 侍者上前問廚房快休息是否要加點, S和我不約而同高呼:  一份蔥油拌麵, 兩盅酒釀芝麻湯圓!  走出店門, 夜深的巷弄排排光禿禿的梧桐樹, 冷空氣凝重, 心底倒是暖烘烘的.  友情是人生除健康外最大財富, 無法臨時抱佛腳, 對朋友不要猜忌不要比較更別吝嗇時間問候, 每次相聚亦無須開到荼靡, 留些思念留些渴望, 期待下次的重逢.

The classic mantra 'Never complain, never explain' works well in friendship, too - I look up to women and men who are strong, intelligent, and humorous in the face of vicissitude.  It was just yesterday that S(in Ithaca) and I(in Manhattan) took turns calling each other long distance for a discourse on Tadao Ando.  And here we were, in wintery Shanghai, exchanging industry insights and tips on how to navigate life's ironic twists.  Before the lovely dinner, we visited the exhibition by the illustrator Tango, right up my alley.  The black and white soliloquy was piercingly satirical with a vivacious reflection on solitude and a romantic penchant for existentialism.

此商旅重頭戲運作尚算順利, 要歸功合作廠商善觀眉眼舉一反三.  上回開會, 我提出多項考量, 這次開會, 領軍的負責人召集模具廠噴漆廠印刷廠全員到齊, 走進會議室, 十位江湖好漢紛紛起身致意.  討論的問題繁複反覆, 馬拉松會議折騰近兩天總算見曙光, 氣氛漸漸輕鬆起來, 廠商笑談行李箱裝著數十支不銹鋼水壺樣品搭高鐵, 過安檢X光驗看簡直像整皮箱的炸彈, 公安攔下大喊: 你, 你, 你這做什麼來著?!  大夥笑翻天.

picture credit:  http://www.theworlds50best.com/asia/en/asias-50-best-restaurants/1120/Fu1015.html

Vendor dinners are almost always a part of a work trip; it highlights the cultural differences.  I hold a democratized view towards business and that is, we are a team and everyone whom I collaborate with is my comrade.  Throughout the years, I made several friends in the industry out of mutual respects.  Occasionally it dawned on me that I have been courted politically.  Am I against that?  Not necessarily for I believe, a successful business does not operate on telepathy and therefore the better one can synchronize with his/her business partners, the more effective we can move forward together.  A feast and a very telling evening it was, at Fu 1015.

世事如棋局局新, 公司另要廠大搬風, 與品牌並肩作戰多年的主事者金盆洗手, 六國封相謠言四起.  我本以為將在外暫離暴風圈, 沒想到頂頭上司電郵遙控亦步亦趨, 新主事者也因應奇速, ㄧ頓便飯邀約遂成盛宴, 設席愚園路名聲顯赫的福1015, 獨棟官邸似的殖民地式洋房, 偌大的私隱客間兩道拱門皆懸有書法(記得ㄧ邊是'紫氣東來'), 推開落地窗是半圓形樹影幢幢的陽臺.  主人家H女士ㄧ襲火紅貼身裙裝, 眼光深沈, 強勢美麗, 紅色要穿的好得十分自信不可輕佻, 她的確有份華艷肅殺莊重的氣質.  陪客是公司上海物流M總監, 我第二次見, 數月前首度會面但覺她脂粉略厚聲音嬌嗲, 非LK同道中人(身為臺灣女性, 我最怕同胞落入刻版印象), 這次深悟此姝妝容精緻巧笑倩兮, 頗有長才, 美貌只是煙霧彈.  左右張望, 主客就是我, 皮衣丹寧布長褲兼一頭亂髮(不是故意無禮, 之前我直以為只是開會後便飯), 雖然隨身攜帶唇膏, 此時此刻要見賢思齊躲入化妝室梳髮擦口紅似嫌做作, 乾脆英雄本色到底.  想來看官眼中是我頭頂身後公司金字招牌, LK眉目如畫或青面獠牙大抵沒有分別.  人人言笑晏晏, 菜色豐派炫巧, 勺著墨魚餃時我想左手邊的H女士思路敏銳, 將來若意見分歧, 曉之以理勝過動之以情.  手剝醉大閘蟹, 我凝視嬌滴滴的M總監, 棉花糖裡可有藏針?  H女士兩位護法, 左使是她姿姿整整的J表弟, 表姐拋個眼神, 表弟三個連續動作一氣呵成.  右使是她受西方教育的世侄A, 言語風趣老道.  我右手邊坐著業務經理JT乃前朝遺臣, 頻頻為我佈菜, 受著她的殷勤我幾乎問出口:  舊主可好?  頓感自己蠢驢, 人家內政與我何干?  其餘四位女將默默微笑用餐... 唱哪齣?  原來姹紫嫣紅開遍, 似這般都付與斷井頹垣, 開著唱著, 少年子弟江湖老.

Local fare is much more tasty and affordable than its western counterpart.  After a long day of work sessions, I very much wanted to plunge into bed skipping meals.  Thank God for Ding Tai Fong, there's a branch in the mall right across the hotel and the Yuan Pavilion, within less than ten minutes walking distance.  Authentic food truly nourishes one's soul - when in doubt, I eat and when I feel blue, I not only eat more but I also eat well :)

上海交通擁擠, 每天早晨司機接我開會, 許多時於車後座閒看市區風景. 各式招牌有趣, '美之源'是整形外科醫院, '瞪眼麵館'是說自家的麵很辣嗎? '小天鵝私房菜'... 誰想出這既洋氣又土氣的名字?  上海某些街道巷弄也讓我想到台北, 心中一凜.  都說近鄉情怯, 但沒人像我怕回家怕成這樣, 我不願意畢恭畢敬雙手捧著橄欖枝, 冷不防背後再被捅刀.  或許, make peace with the past是我2016最重要的人生習題.    

All metropolises in the world are succumbing to globalization.  Shanghai is no exception.  The nearly eight hundred years old Jing'an Temple is engulfed by a myriad of international luxury brands.  It's like walking in the labyrinth of Minotaur with a sudden panic attack.  'This never-ending road to Calvary…' I almost belted out in the Jean Valjean vocal.  Until next time, 上海!