I wanted to revisit La Primavera since the summer of 2015. Four years later, Le Gallerie degli Uffizi I came, reunited with not only Botticelli but also Leonardo da Vinci and Caravaggio. Botticelli wields artistic refinement with clinical precision, Leonardo da Vinci transcends time in his dynamic intellectualism and Caravaggio, instills a lush fluidity between light and shadow.
佇立艷陽下的聖母百花大教堂, 青春洋溢姐妹花請我替她倆照相, 紮著絲巾的微捲褐髪, 碧眼與玫瑰色紅唇閃爍笑意, 短裙翩翩筆直的勻稱長腿, 真是幅美景!
翡冷翠歐陸型男也多, 對胸肌腹肌興趣不大, 看光光怎算誘惑? 剪裁合身西裝展現的性感肩線腰身, 那才是眼睛吃冰淇淋甜的要融化 :) 此行宗旨其實是與女神們的約會, La Primavera睽違多年, 烏菲茲美術館亦成預先訂票按時進場的熱門景點. 雖然人擠人, 操美式英文的觀光客把我推來推去, 能近距離玩賞畫中族繁不及備載的奇花異卉, 人物細微眉目肌理, 春風吹撫的髪髻, 薄紗的層次… 喧囂中, 心靈緩緩蛻變. 生命, 當然需要美感藝術.
Intrigued by its quirky name, the three shackled family members, mom, cousin Kenny and I spent the 'hour of air' in this charming culinary laboratory Ora d'Aria. The interior was stylish Italiano. Chef Stabile, surprisingly humble, came to the table and took our orders.
七月過得辛苦, 卸去鈍性盔甲, 不再迎合他人的需求內化憤怒, 生命若無正義, 還賸什麼? 和平宣示: 我要做自己. 觀眾生 不無悲憫, 我輩生活於史上最最平穩年代, 卻憂鬱至傷人毀己的槍擊屠殺連連… 在高呼救世濟民口號前, 人人皆有義務讓自己快樂起來, 且答案不存於菸酒性愛毒品或成天掛社羣網站等等情緒麻痹劑.
Cousin Kenny chose Il Pesce Pensiero while I went for the land delicacies. The rabbit was a bit heavy handed for me but the guinea fowl under a flurry of black truffle hit all the right notes.
義式料理隨性, 豐儉由人餐餐開心, 唯一訂位是Ora d'Aria, 被餐廳奇怪的名字吸引. 開放式廚房典型流線義大利設計, 工作人員齊整如軍隊, 大鬍子廚師Marco Stabile還親自桌邊點菜, 食材編排不乏心思, 口味卻非道道引人, 結尾甜點追源溯本, 調理的橄欖油來自遠古老樹.
Day 2 of the museum trio: Palazzo Pitti in its splendor, and the who's who of the influential Medici family.
梅帝契家族的碧堤宮館藏豐厚, 穠艷織毯, 沈沈爍爍的水晶吊燈, 高曠的迴廊一幅接一幅史詩壁畫, 描金畫框雕樑畫棟, 那是政教結合, 權力與財富巨細靡遺的展現. 這華麗排場難維續, 只能搖曳步入歷史, 後裔守著祖先文化財收門票. 參觀完姑姪母女弎於綠葉蔥鬱的露天餐座飲冰咖啡閒聊, 母親年輕時伴父親世界各地開醫學會議, 有趟羅馬行母親並無跟隨, 父親挑了雙精緻皮鞋給太座禮物, 居然頗合腳, 很難想像生活瑣事漫不經心的父親竟有如斯體恤的一面… 我總覺父親母親是怨偶, 或許愛情從不曾缺席, 只是現實這第三者更懂撒潑, 磨得人失掉所有耐性.
Visual lavishness of the day's visit balanced by earthy, comfort food of local trattoria in the evening. I was addicted to prosciutto e melon and risotto.
小舅舅媽早僻離, K表弟卻懂事貼心, 大表姐我習慣獨行, 除了路痴較傷腦筋, 只要鋼筆畫本防身警鈴催淚噴霧備齊, 哪都敢自己去, K表弟執意陪伴令我母性大發, 彷若看見十數年後的小V, 吾兒可會陪媽咪遊山玩水? 三代不出舅家門, K表弟亦愛覓美食且懂精打細算, 窩在地小餐坊, 15歐元前菜主食加甜點, 酒水喝到飽.
Day 3 of the museum trio: Giardino di Boboli. It was quite a hike touring the vast gardens and the amphitheater.
翡冷翠逛重點文物預訂套票划算: 烏菲茲 + 碧堤宮 + 波波利庭園. 波波利庭園遼闊, 層層丘陵直上, 爬至頂端可一覽翡冷翠全景, 還有芬芳的玫瑰花叢和遍灑天光的瓷器博物館. 向來欣賞義大利時裝, 當然要入境隨俗, 穿1940年代Almafi blue高腰寬褲襯亞麻黑衫, 揹復古腰包, Anouk Aimee的貓兒眼女人味我是甭想, 然傚仿Mastrionni的慵懶公子哥風, 讓我在豐穗女神雕像前自得其樂留念.
When we made it to the top of the Boboli Hill, the scent of lime, lemon, rose and camellia intoxicated our senses. Perhaps after all, a study in botany beacons?
南歐盛暑晝長夜短, 八點用晚餐都算早, 慢飲冰茶, 慢嚼牛排, 慢勺醇稠的乳酪蛋糕, 閒看街邊人羣攜攘… 貨真價實的甜美生活.
Dinner after 8PM yet the night is still young - La Dolce Vita! When Kenny and I wined and dined at the ristorante, the waiter complemented such lovely couple we made(?!) While my little cousin lamented his mature looks, I reveled in my agelessness… Italian men tell very good lies :)
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