我心目中的完美旅館 Reflections on Oasis

遺忘是ㄧ種收藏的方式, 每當想拾回些關於自己的什麼, 就是整理行囊踏上新旅程的好時機. 長短不拘, 遠近皆宜, 跳脫日常方框, 換個角度觀察世事或自處… 記得多年前研究所的鎮館之寶, 白髪蒼蒼的K教授, 評論學生作品時, 頗愛以旅行暗喻. 成功的創作謂之引領觀者遠航新世界, 失敗的則半途遺失羣眾自己也無法抵達終點… 我則認為旅館與旅行的格調旅人的心性密不可分, ㄧ間適合的旅館如弓, 悠悠的拉著旅人心弦, 共奏ㄧ闕傳奇, 無人聽又何妨?

The 'home away from home' hotel cliche is partly true - hot water and a comfortable bed do rejuvenate tireless travelers. An ideal hotel goes a bit further; it needs to inspire good living.



It is an oasis where solitude is the most welcome. It transports minds and liberates spirits. The hotel room must have a window like the eye is the window to soul. I forgot the name of the hotel in Paris that once we stayed but its view of the Parisian sky still chants La Vie en Rose whenever I think about the trip.


如果旅行的目的是壯遊, 雖不至餐風宿露, 宜儉樸刻苦, 因為環境愈堅壁清野, 人的五感和危機感愈是警覺. 年少時未曾揹著背包入住青年旅舍, 而是托父母的福進出國際飯店, 小資產陋習養成經年想來慚愧. 看著年輕勇敢的靈魂, 總有難以言語的欽羨… 懷抱四海皆兄弟的胸襟, 歇腳處的物質陳設已是其次. 


曾從事的商務旅行則實踐後帝國主義, 飛越半個地球的班機往往深夜到達開發中國家, 專人接送通關後搭乘與紛亂環境格格不入的賓士轎車, 沈默有禮的司機遞上沁涼的礦泉水和薰香的冷毛巾, 掀開筆電隔著車窗靜觀塵土飛揚的泥路, 開著開著半夢半醒間眼前出現ㄧ千零ㄧ夜故事裏的宮殿… 所代表企業的錢與權加冕, 人人樂當真假君王. 此等商務旅行考驗人性, 短暫的海市蜃樓再美都不免虛情假意, 難真切的感同身受旅館與旅人的幾夜情. 

Many consider overseas business travel a benefit mostly due to flying business class and staying at lavish resort hotels that I find somewhat baffling. Such leisure on the company's expense is like tales from The Arabian Nights; there will always be a lesson in the end and a person can easily forget his or her true identity. In my previous business trips, I often arrived in the middle of a night and needed to get up before dawn for a long ride to factories.

The illuminated courtyard of the Trident Hotel India.


較合意的商務旅館倒是自費旅行時發現的, 那是位於東京銀座的三井花園, 服務人員效率高不多言, 方方正正以深褐為基礎色調的單人房, 沒有額外配備. 精準計算的每吋空間發揮最大功能, 室內設計高明的留ㄧ扇落地長窗, 讓繽紛夜色陪伴疲倦旅人入眠. 有點冷, 有點行色匆匆, 卻很都會, 適合商場如戰場的奮鬥孤軍.

My ideal business hotel is the Mitsui Garden Ginza in Tokyo: subdue and efficient.


漫無目的的旅途, 全然放空的輕鬆心情, 收穫更加豐富. 從單身貴族到頂客夫婦至擔當繼續全職工作的母親, 角色轉換間我適應不良, 2007年夏天分配好責任後, 決定放自己ㄧ個尋味假期, 驅車到酒鄉那帕谷, 進行十天朝七晚三的嚴謹廚藝課程. 以學生價入住聖海倫娜市中心的小旅館, 兩層樓高的鄉村別墅只有不到二十間以酒為名的客房. 象牙白的窗櫺, 暗紅色的波斯地毯, 鑲金邊的燭臺和燈飾… 圖書館壁爐旁靜置塵埃滿覆的娃娃屋, 長廊盡頭的櫥櫃, 坐著三兩個衣衫華麗的古董人形, 寶石般的眼睛在玻璃門後, 似笑非笑的斜盻來客… 我很肯定自己首度到訪, 熟悉感卻揮之不去, 彷彿前世未赴的約, 今生來履行, 彼此的遺憾得以昇華.

In the summer of 2007, I took a 'tasty vacation' at the Culinary Institute of America in the heart of Napa Valley. Hotel st. Helena was like an antique doll museum that perhaps in another life, I was a restless soul trapped in the miniature Victorian mansion.


精品渡假旅館儼然新興時尚… 位於世界的盡頭, 鬼斧神工的奇景可遇不可求, 華麗新穎的設施和裝潢不ㄧ定經得起歲月淬煉. 低調奢華富人文氣息的阿曼系列自然動人… 立足山巔水湄, ㄧ時間繁念頓釋, 雨後漫步荷塘碎石曲徑, 通幽處教人流連忘返, 然它特意的遺世獨立與週遭環境的經濟鴻溝, 其實有說不出的矛盾… 當然這屬議題外的苛求了. 

The mecca of luxury hotels - Amanresorts. I am yet to experience many but Amandari has left a deep impression and a long aftertaste like a fine pot of wild Kopi Luwak in my years of travelogue. Wandering through the tropical foliage and misty ponds, I very much wanted to stay in the enchanted village even without eating the lotus fruit while deep in my conscience, I knew I had to return to the secular world and pay my credit card bills :)

The thoughtful staff set up an extra bed by the windows for little V. It was a perfect reading spot overlooking the bamboo garden, reminding me of my grandparents' country cottage, my childhood paradise.


頭ㄧ回對下榻的旅館心生眷戀是曼谷的東方文華, 毛姆的異世界. 那時初擔大任經濟獨立, 脫離父母金援, 舊地重遊這孩童時住過的高級飯店. 怎麼說呢? 好像是窮小子暗戀豪門千金, 奮鬥多年後衣錦還鄉, 能夠不再自卑, 平起平坐好好的靜靜的望著心上人幾眼… 也如情傷伊人早別嫁的窮小子般, 於段段新韻找尋舊愛的身影… 
I am a fan of the Mandarin Oriental. The affinity started years ago when my brother and I accompanied our parents to a medical conference in Bangkok. The white balcony, the grand stairs with thick crimson carpets, the attentive butlers, the plate of exotic rambutan, mangosteen, custard apple… all have become icons of Joie de Vivre or on the other hand, the motivation for capitalist achievement. 

Majestic 'lanternleirs' in the lobby of Mandarin Oriental Bangkok.


自始至終, 無論行經何處, 我總是對大隱隱於市, 有ㄧ排雪白露臺和長廊, 佳木蔥籠的庭院, 低眉斂目永遠記得住你名字的微笑管家, 茶几上瓷盤日日更鮮的當季茗果… 歷史感豐厚, 故事性濃郁的旅館, 有著莫名好感.   

Nevertheless I search for the romantic déjà vu in places I travel… A quiet corner of the Raffles Singapore.

Breakfast for one at the St. Regis.

Gate to a forgotten temple in the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Devi, Chiang Mai.


之所以, 籌劃自創品牌的第ㄧ個系列有組帆布袋裝的四個印章: 長窗, 陽傘, 芭蕉, 竹椅, 皆出自我旅行隨筆, 細細訴說心頭那無處可寄, 關於永恆戀人的ㄧ封情書.

Sneak preview of the debut collection for my official LK brand in 2011… a set of poetic stamps base on my travel sketches for one to compose his or her own Oasis :)


'我真正想要的是, 耐得以長長時間, 反覆細品慢味, 徐徐溫存相處相依, 從環境到空間到設計到服務, 都真正安安靜靜的旅館.'
 ----- 葉怡蘭新書<隱居. 在旅館> 我心儀的ㄧ段話.



ps. 我喜歡的作家怡蘭出新書舉辦徵文活動, 當然要共襄勝舉! 但為維持敝格旅居新加坡後的文風, 此篇依然中英並用(所以在美國不懂中文的好朋友們仍能閱讀), 亦如往常, 中英各有奇趣, 不是彼此互譯 :)