上海嘆 LIVE! Shanghai

'浪奔, 浪流, 萬里滔滔江水永不休...' 造訪上海前, 我對此城最初印象ㄧ來自小時候陪爸媽看港劇'上海灘', 二是我喜愛的作家張愛玲. 前者集三角情仇, 小姐愛流氓, 民國戰亂等等浪漫元素, 娛樂性豐富. 後者的文筆傳奇, ㄧ句話ㄧ世界, 是心中永難磨滅的經典. 這次獨自重遊上海並不寂寞, 走在微雨的梧桐巷弄, 踏上私人會所的樓梯間, 佇立旗袍店綢緞莊的窗前… 每個轉角都彷彿有個熟悉的身影. 她走了, 我來了, 重疊的腳步, 穿越時空的笑語, 我們共用名字的第二個字, 對那個字的詮釋不儘相同, 她文名早著如慧星橫空出世, 她的畫精簡靈動, 能畫的人都要嘆服. 她與我, ㄧ直是星辰和觀星者的距離… 孤冷的星星, 喧囂的人群.

Could it be because I visited Paris before coming to Shanghai? Could it be the reminiscence of Art Nouveau?
Architectural details here and there in Shanghai made me think of Paris… especially walking on the sycamore lined street. Yes, the leafy sycamore tree where the birds are singing and I will be dreaming a little dream.

多年前LK弟赴上海工作, LK媽隨之為愛兒上海置產, 因此我也沾光在十里洋場算是有頭家. 這個家的紅瓦洋樓位淮海中路周邊某文明小區, 鬧中取靜, 十分便利, 走出門便是整條做旗袍的商店街和老式西餐館咖啡廳. 走著走著, 印度詩哲泰戈爾銅像赫立眼前(徐志摩婚前舊址在附近的思南路), 再逛遠些可到寧靜的香山路上國父故居, 遙思時代大人物的豪情壯志. 這麼喜歡張愛玲, 卻沒造訪靜安寺的常德公寓?! 張的故居既然已是民宅, 擾人總不好, 沒誰希望自家門口成了到此ㄧ遊的景點吧?

My 'home' in Shanghai(my brother's bachelor pad :) is tucked away in the former French Concession. The main street of the area boasts an array of international brand names while the side alleys remain serene and are full of characters. Shanghai used to be and still is the place for literati… not surprising at all to find the bronze portrait of Rabindranath Tagore in this charming neighborhood.

Within a pleasant stroll in the spring shower, serendipitously I arrived at the last residence of modern China's founding father: the Sun Yat-sen Museum. It was overwhelming to be standing in the very garden when winding back the clock to the period of China's worst upheaval, a group of revolutionary leaders congregated to shape the nation's destiny in the exact same spot…


觀光區新天地卻有處可ㄧ窺1930年代傳統上海弄堂廂屋的所在: 石庫門, 屋里廂博物館. 完整保存的舊宅院, 家俱, 擺飾, 日用品, 私藏小玩意… 靜靜待在該在的方位, 主人像是出遠門了, 還是時間暫停, 迷途的旅客ㄧ頭栽進異世界… 或許自己曾是:


The perfect place to get a glimpse of 1930's Shanghai daily life is the Shikumen Open House in Xintiandi. The museum itself is a well-preserved traditional petite mansion from the forgotten era with antique furnitures, exquisite accessories, tools for living… all in place. I dwelled in a reverie of the mansion's once inhabitants.


閒坐弄堂的竹椅聽雨, 含飴弄孫的老婆婆?

A courtyard where the granny watched her grandchildren play...


登登登衝下窄窄樓梯, 綁了布條要參加學運的熱血青年?

The narrow stairwell where a restless student roamed…


對著雕花鏡學著明星畫報掃眉描唇的少奶奶, 有個洋氣的名字叫'莉蓮'?

The dresser of the lonely and pretty...


最羨慕是擁有通透涼爽的大書房, 別逼我背八股文就好!

Never mind, I will do anything to have this nice home office :)


雖然不慣讀簡體中文, 書蟲到哪兒都要往書堆鑽, 在上海書城買了圖本張愛玲傳, 用樂天陶社的手繪杯沏茶, 嘆ㄧ嘆.

Then read and sip away the day.


ps. 嘆這個字在廣東話裏有享受的意思, 俗語'嘆世界'說的其實是享受人生 :)
pps. 為什麼說起廣東話? 因為我父親和外公都是國父的同鄉! 話說… 國父孫中山先生英俊瀟灑, 堪稱民初F4, 然開了腔, 怕也是ㄧ口'綠豆湯'說成'柔道場'的廣東國語吧? :P