Before my journey to Kyoto, I was plagued by such insipidity. Yes, Mr. Knightly, I needed a project. It was as if Gollum finally deserted Smeagol, my inner dialogue stopped altogether… okay, bad metaphor. However, the moment we arrived at the Kyoto station when I caught a glimpse of two Japanese ladies in silvery gray and egret kimono, I knew I was home.
放暑假前, 似乎到了臨界點, 精神倦怠像揮不去的霾, 五感之厭世… 然京都遊歸, 方悟千言萬語皆可以淺笑替代, 遙想高鼻深目的佛像, 心中靜謐無限; 願遁道嵯峨野綠蔭森森的竹林, 京都俯拾即唐詩, 隨手拈為宋詞. 我獨鍾綠色, 深深淺淺的綠色…中村藤吉的抹茶刨冰, 和九傳竹葉包裹的西湖希水, 普門庵的蕨餅… 京都若非我前世故鄉, 我必定於此有前世的情人.
Kyoto renders summer in shades of green with a touch of vermillion sunset. A variety of fresh tea and delicacy made from Matcha chill the heat. The spirit of wabi-sabi is reflected not only in the tea ceremony but also in the gardens, large or small, of the temples and traditional shops. The ancient capital unfurled my shriveled soul.
Ippodo
The city is a time capsule. Through enormous respect for the essence of craft, be it tea or confectionery making, the history is preserved.
那天早晨往寺町一保堂本店喝茶, 光瞧著門檻上的墨書已如見故友, 掌櫃漆黑茶罈, 茶名詩意禪心兼俱: 抹茶起'幾世之昔', 玉露教'麟鳳', '鶴齡', 家常用的煎茶喚'嘉木', 喚'薫風'. 茶道謹慎謙卑, 是敬天愛物珍惜眼前人的心情, 因空腹進抹茶傷胃, 品茗會附各式各樣按季節風物捏就的和菓子. 當日有豆泥纏的紫陽花和櫻葉夾的藕粉糕, 陶白淺粉新綠, 良辰好景當如此.
Murakami Kaishindo
La patisserie accented with Japanese exquisite flavor.
寺町迂迴巷弄無處不是百年老店, 途經開新堂, 彷彿穿越時光隧道, 重回大正末代風華, 烏木展架, 黑白相間的瓷磚鋪地, 巧緻的種種燒菓子, 散發纖細的焦糖甜香, 不知道為什麼, 讓人想起白俄謠傳流亡公主Anastasia? 也走到了打造錫器的清課堂, 梅花樣櫻花樣楓葉樣的香座, 宛若掌中山水, 玻璃櫃中的錫罐刻鑿漢詩:
燕子來時春雨香
燕子去時秋雨涼
鴛鴦一生不作客
夜夜不離雙井塘
論詩辭我喜歡蘇軾辛棄疾, 這首元朝楊維禎七言就算以前讀過也必不愛其小情小調, 然仲夏佇足櫃前, 想金屬極硬極冷, 錫偏有些柔軟, 加上繾綣的絕句, 一時間浪漫襲境.
Nakamura Tokichi
If I could have five meals a day(which I did several times in Kyoto), I would have them all here and be intoxicated in Matcha.
愛極綠茶紅豆絕配, 日日宇治金時從不厭倦, LK先生開太座玩笑, 說之後的健檢抽血當驗出綠茶紅豆濃度超標. 此趟旅行最常光顧京都駅飯店旁的中村藤吉分店, 大啖茶蕎麥冷麵, 碧綠的生茶凍, 抹茶玄米茶甜品百匯, 每吃的暢快, 煩惱返美後無此盤中綠意日子怎麼過?
Kagizen
Located in Gion, the legendary kuzukiri was served in tiered lacquer ware.
亦初識鍵善良房祇園本舖, 紅白相間的暖簾字跡樸拙一寫鍵一寫善, 前廳黝暗透著微光, 窄窄的廊道引往開闊的茶室與曲徑通幽的庭院, 沁心的葛切盛於深綠色兩層漆椀, 滿滿遺唐古風. 以雕花木模壓的葛湯餅和菊壽糖娟秀玲瓏, 忍不住懷抱兩盒慢慢回味.
Toraya
Serenity has spoken in the beautiful architecture infused with water, breeze and the change of seasons.
御苑附近的虎屋一條店當然要拜訪, 我這麼個虎屋迷. 鬧中取靜透著淡遠的貴族氣息, 天光水景悠然閒對朱紅的稻荷神社, 青針楓掩印粉杜鵑, 縱炎日當頭清涼不減. 有條不紊的木樁地板也好, 修竹的窗欞也好, 端著紅豆羹的凝露琉璃碟也好, 京都生活建築於和敬清寂, 那是歷史才能有的格調.
My travelogue of sketches… in green ink, too.
旅途中得空便畫圖, 筆紙腦海雙雙印刻千年古城優美的紋理.
7 comments:
我一切都好,讀到這篇也十分舒心。「鴛鴦一生不作客」,正是千帆過盡遊遍世界之後的平靜。 :)
每次到京都,總會訝異這個城市裡的每座園子怎麼都那麼溫柔又大肚能容,塵世間所受的委屈都被一一撫過。有種不論怎樣,你都會懂我的心情的感覺。
『嵯峨野綠蔭森森的竹林』。對了,pilot iroshizuku (色彩雫)有一款墨水名喚竹林,我的愛色之一XD
https://static2.jetpens.com/images/a/000/043/43322.JPG?mark64=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5qZXRwZW5zLmNvbS9pbWFnZXMvYXNzZXRzL3dhdGVybWFyay5wbmc&markalign64=dG9wLHJpZ2h0&markscale=19&s=6be03f6cee84500b64122defe87ded12
Hi Silvia,
上週於寧波和上海開會, 吃了滿肚子的酒釀湯圓. 人人見著我總說怎麼那麼瘦, 看我大啖海鮮河鮮炒年糕又不得不讚嘆怎麼這麼會吃啊 :)
這次認識幾位新廠商, 主事者皆是凍齡大美人, 而且比我年長許多, 俊秀美麗的第二代早長成, 欸, 我是不是該去敷臉了...
Hi 藏風,
我習慣用J.Herbin的茶色和草綠色, Pilot的墨水實在繽紛, 每次在Itoya試的不亦樂乎.
京都有機會可以長住, 慢慢體會這古城四季, 大學時我很迷日本文學, 讀川端康成的古都, 那種細膩讓人心碎.
你也是冻龄啊!我上次见你一点都看不出你几岁,而且完全没有皱纹,也没有赘肉。我不太相信她们比你美。
過獎, 不敢當.
年齡這玩意, 唬得過別人騙不了自己.
現在正坐在昭柏耶河旁吃早餐, 讀著你的美言決定換上飄逸的夏裝迎接新一天的挑戰 :)
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